GOTS Certification : Global Organic Textile Standard

What is GOTS certification: Global Organic Textile Standard ?

The GOTS certification, or Global Organic Textile Standard, is a label of excellence for textile products, ensuring that they are made from organic fibers from organic farming, without the use of pesticides or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). But it goes well beyond these strict criteria on the materials used. Indeed, the GOTS certification also incorporates essential environmental and social considerations in the textile production process.

This food certification imposes rigorous standards regarding water and energy management, wastewater treatment, limiting the use of hazardous chemicals, and respect for the fundamental rights of workers throughout the supply chain. Thus, the production of GOTS certified organic textiles contributes to reducing water and soil pollution, energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, while promoting the preservation of biodiversity and natural ecosystems.

For textile workers, GOTS certification guarantees safe and healthy working conditions, decent wages and benefits, while fighting against child and forced labour. On the consumer side, choosing GOTS certified textile products means opting for superior quality products, made with skin-friendly organic materials and free of harmful substances.

In addition to promoting a responsible and sustainable choice, GOTS certification also provides full transparency on the origin and manufacture of textile products, allowing consumers to make informed decisions. With growing recognition and popularity, more and more brands and retailers are committed to offering sustainable and responsible textile products to their customers, responding to a growing demand from consumers concerned about the environmental and social impact of their purchases.

It imposes stringent standards for water and energy management, wastewater treatment, limiting the use of hazardous chemicals, and respecting the fundamental rights of workers throughout the supply chain. Thus, the production of GOTS certified organic textiles contributes to reducing water and soil pollution, energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, while promoting the preservation of biodiversity and natural ecosystems.

Which organisations offer GOTS certification ?

The GOTS certification is granted by various independent bodies accredited by the Global Organic Textile Standard-International Working Group (GOTS-IWG), the body responsible for the management and development of this label. Today, there are 19 GOTS certified organizations around the world serving the major organic textile markets.

Accreditation criteria of GOTS certifying bodies

To obtain GOTS-IWG accreditation, certifying bodies must meet specific criteria, including :

• Proven expertise and skills in textile certification.  
• The availability of qualified and trained staff in accordance with the GOTS label standards.  
• Application of transparent and neutral audit and certification methods.  
• Adherence to confidentiality and integrity principles.  
• Contribution to the harmonisation and quality control programmes organised by GOTS-IWG.

The advantages of choosing a GOTS certifying body

Opting for a GOTS certifying body offers several benefits, including :

• International recognition of your commitment to organic and responsible textiles.  
• The assurance of respecting the strictest standards of the market.  
• Easier access to international markets thanks to a coherent and universal label.  
• Personalized support throughout the certification process.  
• Better consumer visibility with the GOTS logo on your products.  
• Key GOTS certifying bodies

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Below are some examples of some of the most reputable GOTS certifying bodies :

• Ecocert : located in France, active in more than 130 countries and responsible for the certification of more than 40,000 organic textile players.
• Control Union : established in the Netherlands, present in more than 70 countries, certifying more than 20,000 operators in the field of organic textiles.
• IMOcert : based in Germany, operating in more than 90 countries and certifying more than 10,000 operators in the organic textile industry.

What are the specific GOTS certification requirements for my industry ?

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification covers a wide range of textile products, from clothing and linens to personal hygiene items, provided they are made from organic fibers. Depending on the field of activity, the requirements vary to obtain the prestigious GOTS label.

Let’s look at the specific criteria by sector :

Requirements for organic fibre producers

As a producer of organic fibers such as cotton, flax, wool, or hemp, it is essential to ensure that your farming methods comply with organic farming standards. This includes the absence of pesticides, GMOs and chemical fertilizers. The social criteria of GOTS must be respected, guaranteeing a fair wage, prohibition of child labour and respect for trade union rights, among others.

Your products must also be certified by an entity recognized by the GOTS-IWG, such as Ecocert, which will assess the traceability and quality of your production.

Requirements for processors and textile manufacturers

As a textile processor or manufacturer, including spinners, weavers, dyers, printers, fabricators or distributors, the environmental and social standards of the GOTS label must be respected throughout the production process. This includes :

• The use of at least 95% GOTS certified organic fibres for "organic" products and 70% for "made with organic" products.  
• The exclusive use of chemical inputs approved by GOTS, guaranteeing the absence of substances harmful to health and the environment, and compliance with residue limits in finished products.  
• Reducing water and energy consumption, wastewater treatment, efficient waste management and reduced greenhouse gas emissions.  
• Respect for workers' rights, including a minimum wage, safe and hygienic working conditions, freedom of association and non-discrimination.  
• A GOTS compliance audit by a recognized certifying entity, such as Control Union.

Requirements for personal hygiene products in textiles

For manufacturers or distributors of textile personal hygiene products (such as sanitary napkins, diapers or masks) special requirements are required for GOTS certification, in addition to the general criteria. This includes specifications on fiber composition, superabsorbent polymers, barrier films, bonding methods, dyes, optical bleaches, fragrances and lubricants. It is also important to respect the safety and hygiene standards specific to these products.

What are the steps to obtain GOTS certification ?

For your textile products to be GOTS certified, it is necessary to follow several clearly defined steps :

1. Apply for certification from an accredited body

Start by selecting a GOTS certification body from those listed on the official Global Organic Textile Standard website. Then fill out the application form providing details about your company, products, supply chains and production methods. You will have to agree to follow the GOTS standards and pay the certification fee.

2. Prepare your company for audit

Make sure that your company meets all the specific criteria of the GOTS label for your field of activity. This includes quality verification and traceability of organic fibres, use of authorized chemicals, environmentally and socially responsible management, and compliance with labelling and packaging practices. You must also maintain documents proving your adherence to GOTS standards.

3. Skip the initial audit

An auditor from the certification body you selected will inspect your company on site to verify compliance with GOTS requirements. This inspection covers your facilities, materials, products, raw materials and documents. Product samples can be taken for laboratory analysis. Following the audit, the auditor will share his observations and recommendations, highlighting areas for improvement to meet the standards.

Obtain the certificate of conformity

After passing the audit and adjusting all points of non-compliance within the specified time, you will receive the GOTS certificate of conformity. This certificate validates that your products meet the criteria of the label, giving you the right to use the GOTS logo on your articles and marketing materials, and you will enjoy international recognition.

How much does a GOTS certification cost ?

Obtaining a GOTS certification is an effective way for companies to promote their organic and eco-responsible textiles. The price of this certification varies according to several elements, including :

• The nature of the business: it can involve fiber producers, processors, manufacturers, distributors, and more.  
• The number of sites to be evaluated: factories, warehouses, offices, etc.  
• The complexity of production processes: this includes the number of products, suppliers, inputs, etc.  
• The time required to complete the initial audit and follow-up audits.  
• Travel and accommodation expenses for the auditor.  
• Licensing costs related to the use of the GOTS logo.

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The exact cost of GOTS certification may vary from case to case, making it difficult to provide a specific amount without consulting a certifying body like Ecocert for a bespoke quote.

However, it is estimated that an annual certification can range from 1,200 to 3,000 euros, with an additional 150 euros for each site inspected.

Despite its price, GOTS certification offers undeniable advantages for companies invested in quality and sustainability, allowing :

• Strengthen customer trust and loyalty, in search of respectful and ethical products.  
• Stand out from the competition thanks to a reliable and respected label.  
• Open new market opportunities, meeting the criteria of buyers and distributors.  
• Improve the environmental and social impact of the company, by reducing harmful effects and improving working conditions.  
• Prepare for legislative changes and societal expectations, adopting the strictest standards in the textile sector.

How long does it take to get a GOTS certification ?

Obtaining a GOTS certification requires a considerable commitment in terms of time and effort, due to its importance in ensuring the quality and sustainability of organic textiles. The time required to acquire this certification varies from case to case, influenced by such elements as :

• The complexity of the supply chain: The time required increases with the number of stakeholders to assess to ensure their adherence to the label criteria.  
• The availability of the certifying body: It is necessary to select a GOTS certifying body from their official list and to wait until they are available to carry out the initial audit and follow-up audits.  
• The responsiveness of the company: The prompt provision of all necessary documentation, the correction of non-conformities in time and the annual renewal of the certification play an indispensable role in the process.

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Although there is no standard duration for obtaining GOTS certification, the process usually takes between 3 and 6 months. It is therefore essential to plan your application well in advance.

After receiving the certification, it is imperative to continue to respect the standards established by the label and to lend itself to the annual audits carried out by the certifying body to maintain the certified status.

Is there a renewal to be done regarding the GOTS certification ?

GOTS certification is an internationally recognized standard for organic textiles. It not only ensures the ecological quality of textiles, but also guarantees the respect of the working conditions of producers and processors. To win this valuable status, companies must adhere to rigorous specifications and undergo regular audits by independent certification bodies, such as Ecocert.

However, this certification is not eternal. It requires an annual renewal. Companies must therefore initiate a renewal procedure by submitting the required documents that attest to their compliance with GOTS standards, in addition to paying the certification fee adapted to the nature and quantity of certified products. The renewal process is necessary to preserve validity and trust in the label. This ensures consumers that the products they buy are authentically organic and ethically produced.

For companies, this represents an opportunity to promote their brand, differentiate themselves in the market, expand their customers and retain the existing one. Although demanding, GOTS certification offers multiple benefits for the textile industry, environmental protection and social well-being.